I’ve been here before, and after a recent BBQ at my bit, someone had the nerve to say that it is just so old-fashioned and out of date?
Really? They’ve overhauled this place some time ago, and now it not only is modern, but fits its place that it is trying to do. Our very own Ritz, if I may add!
What a view from my Table!
We were there for tea and cake, but the design, service and accoutrements were brilliant – linen serviettes. The view was perfect for not only people watching, but also to see the piano players, hitting the plastic ivory.
Various internal shots of the Cafe
Even the food was class, with a pink cheesecake chosen for me.
It seemed to me, that this is primarily known and used as a bar / champagne bar (its title), but whoa to be had, with just a little walking around the city centre.
They even had a collection of photos from previous stayers at the accommodation in its heyday; ranging from Roy Rogers to Gene Kelly; though I did not see the photo of Diego Maradona, from I believe 1979.
After settling into my hotel, and having a overnight sleep, tried out the breakfast; but in this case, there was none? Hence, decided to go around the corner to buy some croissants, etc.
I found a metro market called Auchan – which is actually a French based shop, and noticed one or two peculiar but helpful things.
Order / Collect – Interesting Idea
One was the ability to order and then collect your food in an area at the very front of the entrance. I know there are shops here who do this, but maybe not to this detail; completely in English also!
The other was some bizarre (apologies for the black & white photo) chart on the wall at the entrance, describing something? Ah, the French strike again.
Instructions?
After this and some work, did a wander downtown, mainly to meet up with family in the Alfama region, of the city centre.
If you haven’t been here before, it’s a maze of hills, restaurants, yellow trams and tourists! OTOH, it is brilliant! Just go for a wander here, you CAN NOT go wrong.
Here, I walked by the coast and then by several places (Maritime Museum and a Taylors Port tasting room), that I will save for another day. BTW, the weather was awful, I seriously thought it was going to snow!
After this, I had a simply wonderful meal at one of the hundreds of places to choose from.
Restaurant in Alfama
Afterwards, used the metro to return to my hotel, and loved some of the wallpaper.
The great (now dead) Graham Greene once said about some of this books, that they were “entertainments” – there only for pleasure, entertaining and not to be looked at as great works of art.
One of these, Our Man in Havana, was actually superb, and described the early communist government in Cuba, worth a read!
First course!
So when I was out the other night, and attempted to find a restaurant, I happened to wander by The Hyndland Fox (again!), and noted that they had a wine night with tastings on – who could resist.
Second course
Whilst there at the entrance, we were greeted by staff, who after informing us of the night, then ushered us to our unreserved seats, exactly when the talks (between the courses) started.
Cheese course
A Frenchman was there to talk about this new “brand” or company from France known as Rift, with the idea of producing completely sulphur-free wine.
Dessert
The tasting consisted of 4 courses, with an accompanying wine for each course, that consisted of:
Salmon
Duck & Potatoes
Cheese & Homemade Biscuits
Sorbet & Pate
With the highlight, being both the first and final courses. I’ve never tasted sorbet so rich, with the accompanying “pate” being unbelievable, like a candied caramel.
Interesting that I have been here before several times and it always strikes me as if they are trying to do something different; they’ve a comedy club here as well. So I was glad I walked about to find this place. I only wish that I had known about this night before; perhaps they have an email list that I could join?
But yet again, it’s another (IMO) world class foodie thing, right here in Glasgow, with the food and service exceptional, and naturally quite friendly.
The next day, after a sound breakfast, which was interesting as the hotel was just opening up from lock-down, I caught the train to Lisbon, via first class (which was quite reasonable – only about £45 for a return).
Breakfast
After a short walk through Faro to the station, I noted that it seemed quiet, but that there appears to be some renovating and modernising going on about here.
Faro shots
After this, I arrived at the station, where I was very pleasantly surprised by the state and style of the train.
First Class section of Portuguese trains
The station was clean and though at first, I thought I would be the only one there, it filled up quite quickly, with many tourists from North America.
Station shots
With my carriage having one of those “old fashioned” type of doors, which I personally, find reassuring.
Old?
We got in to Lisbon Oriente, with it’s stunning ceiling, that looks better at night, if truth be told.
Lisbon station Roof
After disembarking from the train, and leaving the station, I decided to go for a long walk (about 2 hours) along the east side of the city, that included the Marvila section, to arrive at my hotel (via the underground).
The first part was severely modern, though like most major cities nowadays, has rental bikes.
Marvila area and bikes
The next part, appeared to be under renewal, and can only be a positive thing for the city.
Marvila renovations
Finally, after I reached a point just north of the Alfama Old Town section, I got on the very modern underground, to go to my hotel that was only a few stops north.
Lisbon Underground
After I arrived at my room, a very utilitarian one at that, I was starving, so I
went around the corner, and was pleasantly surprised to find a curry house! I must say, it was lovely and had food that was served slightly differently than the places I’ve been to in the UK.
First of all, I decided after looking at the ridiculous prices of flights from Glasgow and Edinburgh (direct flights) to Lisbon, to go from the little used Prestwick Airport on the west coast of Scotland on a flight to Faro. They mainly only serve Portugal and predominantly Spain, but at very reasonable prices.
Shot of Prestwick, direct from the Bus stop arriving
Firstly, it is so easy to get there, whether by bus (above) or train (below); much easier to get to than Glasgow Airport; still with no train link, though this was tried in the past.
Prestwick Train Station
Inside, the airport is very empty, short queues, and there’s even a wall bar (apologies for the photo), to commemorate Elvis Presley’s only stop in the UK, back in 1960. Though he may have had a secret trip (earlier) to London.
Various shots of Prestwick Airport
The flight was naturally with Ryanair, where I had one of their “deals” with tea.
Once in Faro (for the night), I stayed in a relatively inexpensive (50 euros) hotel, the Hotel Alfonso, that had the typical spartan, tiled look – all I needed!
It was interesting to be in Faro, as the centre of the city has seen better days, so with my late arrival, I had few choices to find a restaurant; though the one I did find (after hotel advice) was perfectly adequate; even with a large screen for the late football.
Sto. Antonio restaurant
The Sto. Antonio (?), if that is what it’s called, served a variety of dishes, mainly Portuguese, but it was a gentle introduction to the cuisine I would be eating for the next few days.
Salad and Gazela green wine
With even the little things, like presentation, quite different to what I am used to. I had one of the “green” wines that the Portuguese do so well – In this case, it was a Gazela wine, and at only 9%, it was quaffable and not too heavy.
Have been here simply NOT enough times over the years, but when in attendance, I always think – why not? They have an incredible selection of rare teas, in a gigantic pot!
Tchai Ovna, down an alleyway in Glasgow’s West End, on the banks of the Clyde river
It’s down an alley that if you didn’t know, you would never expect a café to be. Though there are signs around the corner that do state there is a café here.
Signs directing you to Tchai Ovna.
I decided, been here before but didn’t partake, finally to have a sharing, Middle East platter with a friend, and it was beautiful.
Middle East platter to share
It did what it said it would do, and with a pot of Darjeeling, a huge pot to share, it was more than sufficient to pass away a couple of hours, amongst an eclectic mix of people; vegans, students, artisans, etc.
One of my main beefs with pizza and specifically with “thin and crispy” or even non-thin pizzas, is that the dough, even after baking, is ALWAYS soggy and wet in the middle! Always!
So when I was here at Eusebis yesterday, in the West End of Glasgow, and was told that the particular type of dough / pizza was the best in the world(?), I thought let’s try it. Boy, it is!
Firstly, the pizza itself, Potato Pizza?, was excellent; who would’ve thought? The accompanying side salad was different as well, with some form of attention paid in its creation – even with apple slices.
Service perfect and personal, even when it was actually quite busy both inside and outside in the late Sunday afternoon.
5/5 – Will go again, though have been here before, but this is the first time since pre-Covid
Interesting, I was watching Saturday Kitchen yesterday on the BBC, and was fascinated by a Rick Stein interview of a Duke there in Andalucía, who thought British food was very underrated.
The same I feel for German food, and specifically, Bavarian cuisine that is available at many breweries and guest houses / restaurants.
Wurst, Kartoffelsalat und Bier
It’s just something that they do very well with basic food. Note that the potato salad has very little mayo in it – it’s not a heavy, sticky food; though of course I know it’s not completely healthy as well.
Topped off with a culture of beer gardens, it’s a treasure to take part in.
I must have walked by here several thousand times, another place that was on my list, and finally went in this week to see just what it has to offer. Equally, with a bistro vibe, it also happens to be one of the few restaurants in this area of the West End that is open late.
The décor and food were spot on, and had a lovely chat with the head waiter / proprietor about Corona, opening hours, strategy for day or night diners, etc.
I once again went for a non-meat burger, and was surprised that there were two choices (and staples in this type of food); haloumi or bean burger – I chose the former and also decided to have it “with cheese”; that the waiter and myself laughed about – a cheese burger, with more cheese!
Haloumi and Cheese Veggie Burger
It was lovely, healthy and the stack of chips was like a Rubik’s cube. The addition of avocado was an added plus.
4 /5 – Recommended
Will also in the near future, try their night menu.