shylustig

The Affric Kintail Way – North Scotland

Just after lockdown was relaxed here in Scotland, and just as the first hotels, B & Bs and hostels were allowed to open, I decided to finally do this walk; one of the long distanced paths here in the UK and in particular Scotland. More information can be found here.

It was one that has intrigued me for some time, due to its remoteness and beauty. Along with the fact, that it is possible to stay at the most remote (almost a mountain hut) youth hostel that there is in the UK. Well, due to the lockdown, it was closed, so we had to tent it; which was quite enjoyable and warm (amazingly!).

On our first day, we started from Drumnadrochit, and after several diversions, arrived after an entire day walking, in the small village of Cannich (which itself was almost closed down). I have to admit, that the final two hours were terrible, as there existed no trail (this needs to be rectified immediately!) and so we were on the small, but dangerous asphalt B-Road into Cannich – this was NOT enjoyable. After which, barely making the Co-op for food, we went to our nearby guesthouse for the night.

B road to Cannich, Traffic Signs, Cannich Entrance, Cannich Main Road

The following morning, we were kindly given a lift to the third stage of the walk (bypassing Stage 2), and started from the Loch Affric Circuit Car Park, situated between Loch Affric (to the west) and Loch Beinn a’ Mheadhoin (to the east). I think this was the correct call, as the trail between here and Cannich I’ve done before, and found it both rudimentary and slightly dull. This day was actually quite easy, and in no time, we came by and passed both the possible accommodation options at the end of Loch Affric (Strawberry Cottage – run, I believe, by a walking group from Aberdeen University? and a “Trees for Life” bothy, that is fairly modern). Just past these, in another 45 minutes, we came to the said youth hostel, where we stayed for small break. And then, after just a kilometre more, we camped for the night.

Loch Affric Car Park, Strawberry Cottage, SYHA Hostel from the East / SYHA Hostel / Tent for the Night

The next day, after finally lighting our gas stove (PLEASE REMEMBER TO BRING MATCHES OR A FIRE STARTER!), we were off, where in an hour or so we had a break in the Canban Bothy. From here it was all downhill, both altitude and weather! It rained and rained and then, rained even more. The river (the River Croe) was in full spate, and we finally, after another entire day, arrived in Morvich to be picked up by our previous hotelier. After taking us back to Drumadrochit to collect our car in the central car park (next to the Tourist Information Centre), we had a lovely fish supper and a pint!

View from Canban Bothy window, Start of Morvich, Drumnadrochit for Fish n Chips

Beer of the Week – Traquair House, 160 /-

I’ve seen many recent TV shows about the plight or current state of the various castles, country houses, etc, that we find here in the UK. Many paint a bleak yet optimistic future for these concerns. And to agree to this, I’ve recently visited Traquair House, in Peeblesshire south Scotland, on more than a few occasions; no doubt a good thing as they have diversified into the areas of business, that will no doubt make this ancient country house (the oldest house in Scotland) successful for the foreseeable future. In addition, they’ve added a brewery to their business. With a variety of styles.

One of them is this delightful old style of Scottish ale, known as 160 /- (160 shilling). If you are not familiar with this name, please see here. Basically, the higher the number the more expensive the tax was on this type of beer, and hence, the strength (normally) is higher. For this little beauty, it’s 9.5%, yet at the same time, it’s never to treacly and can go both in a pint (almost!) mug, or in your favourite wine glass.

Slangevar!

Bavaria – Part 3 – Bamberg

For the final installment of my recent Bavarian sojourn, I was very briefly in Bamberg (as I have already described the heavenly lager, Mahrs, that I drank). What was stunning to me, was the number of churches (again!), the cleanliness and the several “brew pubs” that I saw; below is the magnificent and stately, Obere Pfarre Church – which I preferred to Bamberg Dom.

I had a schnitzel, for probably the first time in years, with pomme frites in a delightful outdoor court, complete with covering for the rain, and also visited Bamberg Dom, that was complete with a roof top garden, and a spectacular view over the rest of Bamberg.

Finally, went to the start of the St James Camino in Bamberg at St Jakobs Church, that also featured several maps of the complete set of Caminos in Europe.

Monday – Cafe / Restaurant review – Cafe Francoise, Glasgow

Is it allowed or even thought nowadays, that a brilliant place should simply be taken for granted, and if not, should you constantly be checking it out, to see if something has changed? And what if, something has indeed changed? And not for the better. What do you do? Slate it, or give it another chance, or was it a one off? Or write a critical review, in order to try to remedy the situation.

This is my predicament with this café. I used to simply love their eggs rancheros; the beans, avocado (not smashed!) and the freshness of the tomatoes. But I regret to inform, that it was simply rotten earlier this week. The “over easy” eggs were hard boiled; and I mean HARD boiled. As if they had been cooked hours before, and then reheated under the heat lamps. Ditto with the brick-like toast. Combined with no butter for the said toast, and you had a fairly dreadful meal; minus the A+ service.

I’ll try to give it another chance.

Bavaria – Part 2

As this isn’t really a “beer and vomit” type of elegy to Germany, Part 2 will start with something that is even spiritual, the Saint James Camino, or as stated in German, St Jakobs Weg. Yes, THAT camino, and there are numerous variations of this not only in Bavaria, but in other parts of Germany as well, as this map shows; with the red way in northern Spain (The French Way) being the most popular. If interested, please try this site, for further information.

My journey was only for two days, and was in southern Franconia, though still beautiful! And this comes to another point about Germany, and specifically Bavaria – their churches. I have always wondered why they are not as renown as others in Europe. The particular style in Bavaria is Rococo, though I could be wrong that it applies to every church here (probably I am!).

On our first stage to Effeltrich was delightful, and still so close to cities, but JUST far enough to feel a sense of remoteness – however false that was. In addition, there will always be a village or small town within an hour of you, complete with all things German (bakeries, Gasthauses with Bier, etc). What was unusual here in Effeltrich, was a bizarre “church / fort” (in German a “Wehrkirche – Fortified Church”), at the end of the stage, called St Georg. More information can be found here.

The second stage was continued a few days later, and started from Effeltrich via a bus, to Forcheim. Whilst we took a wrong turn in a forest after Pinzberg (to Kersbach), we still had time to discover a delightful trinity of churches / chapels in Pinzberg.

The first was a chapel (Kappelle)

Followed by another Kappelle, complete with outdoor seating for services. Interesting and with an ode to German efficiency, it was possible to not only collect a stamp for your Camino book, but also to listen to some spiritual tunes as well. Magnificent!

Shell and Stamp for your use. Cool hi-fi system!

The final stop in Pinzberg, was at St Nikolaus, with a smaller chapel inside, for use of children.

Afterwards, we meandered to Forcheim central, but stopped along the way at a Lutheran church, St. Johannis – Evangelisch-Lutherische, in it’s outskirts, though still part of the camino. Yes, non-Catholic churches take part here; even in Bavaria. Though in this case, it was not as ornamental as other places. Though it still had the blue and yellow shell signifying the camino.

St. Johannis – Evangelisch-Lutherische, Forcheim

Inside St. Johannis – Evangelisch-Lutherische, Forcheim

Finally, ended in the centre of Forcheim, with what else a bier. In this case, it was a Tucher, information here.

If you do notice one thing though, in the summer in this neck of the woods, there are wasps EVERYWHERE there is food. Hence, you simply have to use the beer coaster (Untersetzer) on top of a beer. You’ve been warned. But if you require more information on this, please check out here.

First hit, Last hit – Wham; Young Guns (1982) / Edge of Heaven (1986)

This was always interesting to me, as I recall, Rolling Stone laughed at these guys, due to them being a “white rap group”; in their review of the British Invasion, Part 2, in 1983/84. Little did they know that shortly, they’d be huge, even in America.

As a showcase how they changed, Young Guns (Go for It) came from 1982 and was rap. But after several giant hits, in a variety of pop styles, they released in 1986, my personal favourite, Edge of Heaven – far more upbeat and for Wham, maybe even “gritty”? If that is an oxymoron, please forgive me.

First hit, last hit – The Everly Brothers

Being young, and not remembering the black and white world of my parents; when they talked of the Pat Boones, Fats Dominos or even Elvis, I was completely unknowing of what they were speaking about. All of these people who had their hair so short, wore such conservative clothes, etc. It was literally another world.

So it is interesting to know that the Everlys, tried and were nearly successful in breaking out of that fifties / early sixties era. Their first hit, was of course Bye, Bye Love in 1957, that came in at number 2 in America, and number 6 here. Whilst their last, complete with “groovy” 60s’ clothing (and in colour by the way!), was this gem, Bowling Green. That ended up, tellingly, at only number 40 in the USA in 1967. Enjoy.

Beer of the Week – Mahrs

So as part of a Bavarian trip, I go to the magical town of Bamberg, where at last count, there are ten breweries contained therein. Whilst these were not to our avail, I did manage to attend an outside restaurant, complete with a protected courtyard, and resplendent with a marquee against the elements (Why don’t they have that here in Glasgow?).

And as an accompaniment to my schnitzel, I ordered the local brau, Mahrs. A lager I’ll have you know, and sensational. Just look at that foam!

Bavaria – Part 1

It’s probably been said numerous times; a traveler goes to Munich, and talks about, or ONLY talks about the Lowenbrau tent at Octoberfest, and getting hammered, etc. Seen it, done it, years, as in YEARS ago! Not impressed, and besides, for anyone with any, and I mean any inclination or brains, it’s Augustiner beer that’s the best that Bavaria (or Munich) produces. So the purpose of this post, is not the stereotypical reminiscing about Deutschland, but of some unknown or even idiosyncrasies that I’ve noticed this last trip and before.

First, the cigarette machines. Yes, they are everywhere, and with a finger to the PC brigade, it gives people there the choice – and btw, you can only purchase with credit cards; no cash.

The second part, is the food. Whoever has said that the cuisine in Germany is shite, has simply never been there or in Bavaria. Even something very simple as a salad, has ALWAYS come in a dressed, elaborate manner, that is delicious. For example the Swiss variety of Wurstsalat (sausage salad). So simple, with a non-fattening style of dressing; more vinegar than oil.

Wurstsalat – Swiss variety

As for the Churches, that will be next, in Part 2, when you can see my report from one of their St James Caminos.

First hit, last hit – Prince

This is the start of this type of entry, and one that has intrigued me for some time. It is particularly interesting in these days, as many of the old school rockers and artists, whilst never being able to have enough streams (free) for their albums and in particular, for their singles (if they even release them) to be “hits”, are at the same time selling out concerts where the minimum ticket is 25 to 50 quid.

A while ago, I was listening to an American commentator, who mentioned the same thing. It concerned Bob Segar or Prince, and stated the obvious, that their back catalogs were worth a fortune, but as for their fortunes nowadays, they were weren’t worth a nickel!

Well, if I had a back catalogue like either, count me a has been!

As for Prince, his first top 40 in the UK was “1999”, released in 1982. While his last was from 1997, entitled “The Holy River” *. Only fifteen years! A slice of nice, easy listening with colours, which you can find below:

* https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prince_discography